Set against the open sky on the Ihumātao Peninsula, Ōtuataua Stonefields Historic Reserve, located on the edge of the Manukau Harbour in Māngere, is one of the most culturally and archaeologically significant landscapes in Tāmaki Makaurau. This remarkable area preserves the layered history of Māori and European settlement, from ancient stone gardens and pā sites to dry-stone walls built by early farmers. There is also walking access to two volcanic craters.
Ōtuataua is one of the earliest known Māori developments of a sophisticated system of volcanic stonefield gardening, where warm, well-drained soils and basalt rocks were utilised to cultivate kūmara and other crops. The scattered stones you see today are not random; many were placed to shelter plants from wind, retain heat, and mark boundaries. Heat retention was necessary for acclimatising plants that Māori brought with them from warmer central Pacific climates. Earthworks from ancient pā are also visible on the ridgelines and slopes, marking the strategic significance of the site.
The land was confiscated by the Crown in the 1860s during the Waikato invasion and subsequently sold to European farmers. These farmers used the area for grazing and quarrying, and built the dry-stone walls that are still visible today. In the 1900s, parts of the area were affected by urban expansion. However, in 1999, the core stonefields were protected as a historic reserve.
In recent decades, land adjacent to the reserve has been subject to disputes over ownership. This led to several years of protest and legal action, including blockades of the road entrance to the reserve, off Oruarangi Road. In 2020, it was agreed that the affected land would be purchased by the government and managed in partnership with iwi and hapū who trace their lineage to the area.
The walking paths through the reserve allow you to explore the stonefields, open paddocks, lava fields, and bush pockets at your own pace. Interpretive signage provides insight into the area’s agricultural and Māori history. Keep an eye open for the avocado orchard, where you can take five avocados per person in season. The site is especially moving at dawn or dusk, when the low light emphasises the contours of the land and the weight of its history.
At the southern edge of the reserve lies Te Puke Ōtuataua, a low volcanic cone with a circular, walkable crater. A short climb to the summit provides expansive views across the peninsula, over the stonefields and harbour, and out to the Waitākere Ranges. It’s an ideal spot to pause and reflect on the endurance of this landscape. There is also Puketi, a high point with a smaller cone, partly quarried, on the northeast side of the reserve.
The main road access to Ōtuataua Stonefields Historic Reserve is via Ihumātao Quarry Road, off Orutangi Road; however, this may be intimidating for visitors, as there are still partial barriers and no access signs due to the land protests. Instead, from the north, you can access the reserve on the Watercare Coastal Walkway. If you are driving, you can park your car near the Oruarangi Creek bridge on Oruarangi Road and walk from there. You can also walk in from the southeast corner on Ihumātao Road. Watch out for the small parking area and signposted access about 4 km along the road from George Bolt Memorial Drive.
