Puhoi is a charming rural settlement located about 50 km north of Downtown Auckland, on the banks of the Puhoi River. Alongside Wenderholm, it marks the most northerly part of the Hibiscus Coast, although it is around 8 km inland. The name Puhoi translates to slow water, reflecting the river's gentle tidal flow. The river flows into the Hauraki Gulf on the north side of Wenderholm.
Puhoi is best known for its very popular historic pub, which features live music on the weekends and displays of the Bohemian settler experience. There is a pretty Catholic Church, a museum and hall, plus several other early buildings. In the centre of the small village, there are a couple of delightful tourist shops, a cafe, a cute library and a small wharf on the river. A little further west along the road is the farmyard-style cafe, Puhoi Cottage Tea Rooms, which arguably has the best Devonshire teas in the country!
If you want to be a bit more active, you can rent a kayak from Puhoi River Kayaks and paddle down the river to Wenderholm. There, you can go to the beach for a swim, take a hike on one of the trails, including Te Araroa, visit a historic homestead, or relax in the shade of a big pōhutukawa tree. Puhoi River Kayaks will transport you and your boats back to town, so don’t worry about paddling upstream.
Another option is the 40-minute Puhoi Lookout Track. This loop starts just over the bridge next to the public toilets and climbs around 100 metres through hilly paddocks and mostly replanted native forest to good views over the valley and village. The other side of the loop takes you down to the Puhoi Reserve, a large, grassy area above the river. Note that some steep sections of the track can be a bit muddy after rain. The loop is a section of Te Araroa, and you can continue west for 5 km on the Puhoi Track, with more native forest and panoramic views of the valley and rugged hills.
European settlement of Puhoi began in 1863, when a group of German-speaking migrants from Staab (modern Stod) in Bohemia (now in the Czech Republic) arrived under the leadership of Captain Martin Krippner. It was initially called the Bohemian Settlement, and three additional groups of migrants joined them over the following few years. The settlers were Catholic, and if you look closely, you will spot the unusual sight (in NZ) of a roadside shrine as you enter the village.
On arrival, the settlers were transported up the river by and supported by Te Hemara Tauhia of Ngāti Whatua. Like many early settlers, it was a tough existence. First, the forest had to be cleared, then the land converted to farms. A commemorative stone in the village honours these pioneers, Te Hemara and other aspects of the pioneer existence. The church was completed in 1881 and dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, coinciding with the feast day of their arrival. A church run school was added, which is now the museum. The Puhoi Hotel was licensed in 1879 as the German Hotel. The Puhoi Historic Village Zone was established in 1976 to recognise the historic buildings.
From Downtown Auckland, take the Northern Motorway to the Puhoi off-ramp. Follow the signs for the short drive to the village. To avoid the road toll, take the Silverdale or Ōrewa Grand Drive off-ramp and follow the Twin Coast Discovery Highway instead.
