Exploring the Eastern Kaimanawa Forest
Kaimanawa Forest Park, located south of Tūrangi in the central North Island, offers some of New Zealand's most underrated backcountry terrain. While many adventurers know the central plateau for its volcanic peaks and alpine tracks, the eastern access to Kaimanawa Forest Park opens a more secluded, forested world of deep river gorges, historic hydro landscapes, and quiet DOC campsites.
This guide outlines a 2–3 day itinerary exploring the best short walks, scenic spots, and camping options along Kaimanawa Road and Tree Trunk Gorge Road. It’s ideal for families, hikers and trout fishers who want a rewarding micro-adventure close to Tūrangi and the Desert Road.
Waikato Falls: Hidden Power on the Tongariro River
Located on Kaimanawa Road, and the first site as you enter the park, Waikato Falls is a dramatic cascade where the Tongariro River drops into a tight gorge framed by ignimbrite cliffs. Surrounded by mountain beech and tōtara, this site is peaceful, powerful, and steeped in both geological and cultural significance. The Tongariro River here flows swiftly and clearly, echoing through the forested chasm.
A short walk leads to viewpoints over the gorge and top of the falls, and a side road and track to Beggs Pool offers a view of the base of the falls. The roar of the river, combined with the narrowness of the gorge, creates a natural amphitheatre. This is also a place of mana: Tongariro, which refers to a “cold south wind,” is central to Māori stories of the region, and the name Waikato here refers to the “flowing waters” of the upper Tongariro, not the northern Waikato River.
Beggs Pool and Dam: A Riverside Lookout
Just downstream from Waikato Falls, Beggs Pool is a tranquil spot where the Tongariro River widens into a pool before continuing its journey north. It’s also where water exits the Rangipō Tailrace Tunnel, then enters the Poutu Tunnel as part of the vast Tongariro Power Scheme. This site, flanked by beech forest and popular with trout fishers, is relatively peaceful and provides insight into New Zealand’s hydro history.
From the pool, you can see where water re-emerges from the underground system. The nearby dam infrastructure tells the story of how rivers in this region were diverted for electricity generation. It's a great stop for a picnic, fishing, or a quiet moment beside the water.
Pillars of Hercules to Urchin Campsite: Forest and River Adventure
Start your hike at the stunning Pillars of Hercules, a narrow volcanic gorge with a swingbridge suspended 40 metres above the roaring river below. The experience of crossing, often without a clear view of what’s beneath due to dense trees, is thrilling and unforgettable.
From here, follow a well-graded 1.5 km track that climbs gently through beech and fern forest toward Urchin Campsite. The walk takes about 40 minutes one way, offering high river views early on, then dipping into a tranquil, intensely green rainforest. It’s a great afternoon leg-stretch and links well to other tracks in the area.
Another option from the west side of the Pillars of Hercules swingbridge is to walk or bike about 5 km to the Desert Road.
Tree Trunk Gorge Track: Forest, Stream and Scenic River Views
One of the more rewarding short tramps in the park is the Tree Trunk Gorge Track, a 4.7 km (one way) walk that follows the upper Tongariro River through mixed beech and kamahi forest. The trail includes stream crossings, forest glades, and access to the river's edge about 1.3 km in.
After climbing around 100 metres, the track swings back inland, eventually ending at Urchin Campsite. You can combine this walk with the Pillars of Hercules Track to create a satisfying, longer walk. The trailhead is easily accessed from Tree Trunk Gorge Road off the Desert Road.
Tree Trunk Gorge: Tongariro's Wild Chasm
Even if you don’t walk the whole track, Tree Trunk Gorge itself is worth the stop. Just a few minutes from the Desert Road, this chasm cuts through ancient volcanic rock, surrounded by trees and shrubs, with turquoise waters gushing below. It’s one of the most dramatic sights in the upper Tongariro catchment, formed by eruptive flows from the wider Tongariro volcanic system.
Viewpoints on either side of the bridge offer excellent photo ops. Named for its tendency to become clogged with logs after floods, this gorge is a powerful symbol of the park’s rugged beauty.
Camping in the Eastern Kaimanawa: Quiet DOC Bases
There are three excellent DOC campsites along Kaimanawa Road, all suited to a 2–3 day stay for tents and campervans, with a total of 40 sites. These are basic campsites, so they are available on a first-come, first-served basis and are free. You'll need to bring cooking gear and pack out rubbish. Facilities are limited to toilets and flat spaces for tents.
Urchin Campsite is the most centrally located and has access to the walks listed above. It's surrounded by mountain beech, with 10 sites, and has access to stream water. It’s peaceful and makes an ideal base for 2–3 days of exploring.
Waikoko Campsite is set beside the Waikoko Stream and is also the start of the Umukarikari Track, which takes you deeper into the mountains of the park for half-day to multi-day tramps. The 20 sites are tucked into a forest clearing, and there is access to stream water and a cooking shelter.
Kaimanawa Road Campsite is a gateway base with easy access to Waikato Falls and Beggs Pool. It has flat grassy areas with 10 sites and is conveniently located for exploring the Tongariro River valley. It has no immediate access to water and requires self-sufficiency.
These sites let you stay immersed in the forest while accessing multiple scenic spots on foot or by car.
Suggested Itinerary: 2–3 Day Eastern Kaimanawa Escape
Day 1: Arrive via SH1 and drive in on Kaimanawa Road. Stop at Waikato Falls and Beggs Pool. Camp at Kaimanawa Road or Urchin.
Day 2: Hike the Tree Trunk Gorge Track in the morning, then enjoy a picnic by the river. Continue to the Pillars of Hercules, return via the track to camp.
Day 3: Option to tackle Umukarikari Track or Mt Urchin summit before returning to Tūrangi.
This itinerary blends scenic views, geological marvels, and peaceful camping, all within a long weekend.
Key Things to Know Before You Go
- Weather can change rapidly: Bring layers, waterproof gear, and check forecasts before departure.
- These DOC campsites are basic: Bring your own water or boil / filter stream water.
- Limited phone signal: Download or cache maps offline and carry a PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) if going off-track or on longer, more remote hikes.
- Track conditions vary: Some tracks can be muddy or slippery after rain; wear sturdy boots.
- Respect the environment: Take all rubbish out, stick to marked tracks, and leave no trace.
- Some access roads are gravel: While accessible by 2WD, they can be rough, so drive carefully.